Previously, Part I gave an overview of labor abuse and human rights issues associated with the diamond industry. But diamond mining also takes a significant toll on the environment.

Environmental impacts of diamond mines

There is no such thing as sustainable or environmentally-friendly diamond mining; at best one might claim that one source is less environmentally destructive compared to other methods. No matter what greenwashing the industry might engage in, there is no avoiding environmental impacts when operating a mine at a commercial scale. Mines of all sorts are massive land-moving operations that disrupt ecosystems, watersheds, and communities.

Where diamonds come from

Diamonds formed deep in our Earth and were transported to the planet's surface millions of years ago through geologic formations called kimberlite pipes (or less commonly, lamproites). These were basically large vertical volcanic tubes that blew and solidified, leaving diamonds entrapped in a large "carrot" formation of kimberlite rock.

This means that there are two main types of diamond mine: 1. a large open-pit mine reaching as far down that kimberlite pipe as possible (primary source), and 2. the mining of deposits created through erosion, glaciation, and other geologic processes that carried diamonds away from the kimberlite (secondary source).

You truly don't grasp the scale of mining

Four out of ten of the world's largest open-pit mines are diamond mines. The Mir Mine in Russia is reputedly so large Russia established a no-fly zone over it; the heat radiating from the exposed earth of the deep pit surrounded by permafrost could potentially interfere with lift enough to take a helicopter or small plane out of flight.

Image: via Wikimedia Commons Mir mine. Mirny. The Republic of Sakha (Yakutia). Far Eastern Federal District. Russia. By Staselnik.

Surface-mining operations process even larger swaths of land where diamonds have been scattered. They go 'wide' more than 'deep,' searching out the highest concentrations of deposits. In doing so, they can be far more destructive to lifeforms.

Case example: Namibia

Namibia is a shocking example: in geologic history, the Orange River crossed a kimberlite pipe, eroding it and carrying diamonds downstream ('fluvial' deposits).

Over millennia, the river deposited the diamonds into the ocean where they spread up the coast of present-day Namibia; today the Orange River forms the country's southern border. Modern diamond mining has been torn up Namibia's coastline for miles as you travel north from the river's mouth, visible on Google Maps. Companies built off-shore earthen berms to hold back the ocean, then processed the shoreline down to the bedrock. Completed operations appear as large pools along the coast.

What's not visible on Google Maps is the undersea mining, where trawlers process tons of ore from the top layer of the ocean floor, operating 24 hours a day. Environmental reports effectively claim there isn't much there anyway, it being a desert and all. As someone who's spent a lot of time in the desert, I will always contest that presumption! Deserts are among the most biodiverse places on our planet. They tend to be especially rich in endemic species, meaning species that are only found in that place—making them especially vulnerable to endangerment or extinction.

Okay well lab-grown diamonds seem like a good alternative?

Not to be confused with simulants like CZ, lab (or synthetic) diamonds are chemically and structurally identical to a mined diamond, but grown in a laboratory setting instead of nature. Synthetic diamond technologies have improved rapidly in the last decade, so it is now feasible to produce quite good quality colorless and flawless material.

Lab-grown diamonds are often marketed as the environmentally conscious and socially responsible choice (not to mention more budget-friendly). However, the industry is far from squeaky clean. In 2019 the FTC took action against companies for being deceptive in advertising their synthetic diamonds as "'eco-friendly,' 'eco-conscious,' or 'sustainable'" (ABC News).

Energy use

Lab-based production is not environmentally-friendly nor sustainable simply because it has less environmental impact than mining. Labs are energy intensive in order to reproduce the high pressure and temperature conditions in which diamonds naturally form. Due to the regions where production is concentrated—largely east and south Asia—that energy is heavily coal-based, contributing to greenhouse gas emissions.

Because lab diamonds are more affordable, a lot of people spring for bigger stones. The larger the stone, the longer it takes to grow, and the greater the environmental impact.

"Green" labs

There are synthetic diamond labs using 100% renewable energy options. There are also labs that claim to be THE most ethical option by using captured carbon to create their diamonds.

If a diamond is marketed as green, sustainable, or otherwise eco-conscious, look for more information about how. Be leery of language indicating they "invest in green technologies" or are "certified neutral," which may be associated with carbon credit/offset schemes.

Rid yourself of the notion that carbon programs work! Credits operate on the assumption pollution will occur, and by "saving" pollution in one part of our system, we give ourselves permission to continue to engage in pollution elsewhere. Offsets give us permission to engage in pollution because it will be "fixed" by equal environmental improvements elsewhere. Too often, these environmental efforts don't hold up to scrutiny and gravely overestimate their ability to mitigate carbon emissions; one investigation in 2020 found as few as 6% of REDD+ credits were valid.

Human rights impacts

To me the larger concern with labor rights is that China leads production of lab diamonds, creating about half of the worlds lab-grown diamonds. Any industry running through China in this era runs a risk of involving Uyghur forced labor. To date I have not seen reports of this occurring in the synthetic diamond industry, and synthetic diamonds have not appeared on the list of goods produced through forced labor.

Like Kimberley Process diamonds, it is also possible for labor rights violations to occur later in the supply chain, during the cutting and polishing of lab-grown diamonds. 

Artisanal mining

Natural diamond industry PR agents would have you believe lab diamonds will impact traditional, artisanal local mining communities by lowering market prices and replacing natural stones. (Ignore that local communities have earned only a fraction of the wealth that commercial mines have produced and the industry was monopolized for most of its history. The LABS are the problem, not the imperialism.)

'Artisanal' might make it sound like a sustainable, small-scale operation, but artisanal mines can do massive amounts of environmental damage (as in the case of gold mining in Ghana, for example).

Fine what's a good diamond alternative to use?

Here's the thing: we live in a late capitalist hellscape. As the saying goes, there is no ethical consumption under capitalism.

The issues I've outlined apply to some degree to other gemstones, and the precious metals you would have them set in, and a bunch of other materials in the products that are part of your day-to-day life. The problem of silicosis, for example, has run rampant and become a crisis in India. Major offenders include the gemstone and jewelry industry but also sectors like quarry work, mining, tile cutting, construction materials, and stone carvings. Did you do this level of research before re-tiling your bathroom? Maybe you ought to!

Don't feel hopeless!

I don't mean this to be a reductio ad infinitum; ultimately I think it's a big part of the psychological game people are trying to navigate as consumers. The burden of ethics has been thrust onto consumers to "vote with our wallets," but it's incredibly difficult educate yourself about the entire supply chain of every purchase. Then when you pull back the curtain, it seems like there are a bunch of bad choices with confusingly good PR.

Don't give up hope though! Seriously, it's all part of the consumer psychology, so stay strong to spite them. Studies show consumers quickly get overwhelmed when presented with too many options and complex decision-making. If everything feels hopeless, consumers are more likely to throw up their hands and quit trying to make ethical choices.

Find your own stone

If you want a diamond, one option is to visit Crater of Diamonds State Park in Murfreesboro, Arkansas. You pay a small fee to dig for your own diamonds, and any 'finds' are confirmed by their experts on-site. This definitely isn't a guaranteed method, since plenty of people leave empty-handed. But if you're a rockhound, it is hard to beat finding your own engagement stone!

There are places to search for other types of gemstones all over the United States on public property, and there are pay-digs (if not self-explanatory, you pay property owners a fee to dig for stones you then get to keep). Consider researching whether any interesting gemstones can be found in your area—or plan a roadtrip!

Work with experts

One option to purchase an ethically-sourced stone is to work with a good jeweler. This usually means a local jeweler; you won't have much luck with a commercial chain. Someone experienced in the industry will be able to connect to stone dealers who source and cut their own materials. Montana Sapphire is a great option that is commonly mined by the same people who facet and polish it.

In the age of the internet, you can directly connect with stone dealers who showcase their work on social media. It can be nerve-wracking to make a large purchase without seeing the piece in-person, but there are plenty of reputable sellers who do great work. Of course there are also opportunists in every corner of the internet; scams have proliferated. If you're unsure whether you can trust a seller, one good check is to reverse-search the images from their listing. A lot of scams simply steal images from someone else's original listing and then send the buyer a poor replica (...or nothing).

In conclusion...

I'm not going to tell you there is a right answer, because there isn't one. I hope to equip you to go into your decision as an informed consumer. There is a lot of advertising and societal pressure telling you the ring is a symbol of how much your partner loves and respects you... the implication being, it's a competition to prove love with a big, flashy, or expensive diamond.

Ignore that buzz and think about what matters to you—after all, you're the one wearing it. It has become much more common and popular to use non-traditional stones and designs for engagement rings, so don't be afraid to get creative!